Sunday, March 20, 2011
A Bit of a Curveball Amidst Muddy Barrels.
The rain was absolutely down poring all day today. It was howling south wind in the morning and the ocean looked anything but inviting. After a three hour breakfast escapade with my parents and about 5 cups of coffee I had a weird feeling one sneaky stretch of beach might be good. My Dad and I carefully drove through the rain going 45 on the freeway to find wedgie, offshore, beach break pits with not a soul out. Sean Hayes paddled out with me and after about 8 perfect right tubes we each took off on this one wave and were sitting in perfect tubes heading towards each other. Sean on the left and I on the right. We were going super fast straight at each other and I had to awkwardly straighten out into the lip to avoid colliding with purps. While summer salting underwater I tweaked my back and then out of no where my board tagged me in the head. I came up and was about 2 feet from Sean and we paddled back out. My head didn't hurt but I decided i should check to make sure I didn't have a cut. I stuck my hand under my hood and when I pulled it out it was covered in blood. Dark blood was dripping down my face into my mouth and staining the muddy brown water. It was really hard to walk away from perfect a-framing tubes, but I was nauseous and was pretty sure I needed staples in my head. My Dad and I drove up to the ER where the doctor put 8 staples in my head. The pro junior and WQS start in huntington on wednesday so it looks like I will be surfing in a swimming cap or something.
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Eeww gross!
ReplyDeleteIt was worth it! Let all the kooks sit home and critisize the "dirty water" while the people who can actually do a turn in this town ( which is rare) are getting barreled off their nut! Yesterday was all-time! Glad u got out!
ReplyDeletewhat was the name of said beach break?
ReplyDeletehipstamatic huh
ReplyDeleteAh!
ReplyDeleteI hope everything is better by now!
thats cute
ReplyDelete