It's 5 o'clock and I hear Owen walk out the front door. I hop out of bed and follow him out the door. We jump in the car and drive 5 minutes down the road. Owen whips around the corners in the rental car. I can tell he's excited. I'm still half asleep but we pull up to a little car park and I hesitate before following him down a little goat trail. We walk through a little jungle and come out on the edge of a cliff. I look to the left and at the end of a rock finger I watch a wave double up, hit a ledge and slab. It spits about 5 feet from a huge clump of rocks. There's no one out and we watch several boogie boarders walk away not wanting anything to do with the wave. I noticed helmets strapped to their backpacks. Owen froths while I contemplate whether or not I could make a drop on a wave. We decide it's not surf-able. I'm relieved. We head back to the house and grab the group before we drive to a wedgie beach where no ones around....
The next day we hear from some boogie boarders that it was 8 feet with rouge ten footers. One guy tried to catch a wave on his sponge and went face first into the reef. He broke his jaw and got cuts all over his face.
The crew is Dillon, Evan, Owen, and I. We went down to visit owen with Beron hall and Perry filming for Kai's new movie Lost Atlas. We didn't have internet and there was hardly a restaurant in site. We woke up at 5 most days and surfed until dark. Here starts a back up of photos and such from our adventures.
Conner
Sick photos
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