......Burleigh

The sun was bright and hot shining straight into my eyes as I walked towards the contest set up on the point at Burleigh. I walked into the competitor’s area and set my board down. A few perfectly colored waves ran down the point feet from the big, black, barnacle-infested rocks.  I threw on my trunks and grabbed my board, a 5’9” Fred Rubble. It was covered in pressure dings and the stringer stuck out slightly from the light glass job. It has a big drawing of a Flintstone character on the bottom that oddly resembles me. Everyone walked up the point to jump off the rocks, but I walked down the point to a sandy little nook. I didn’t want to risk my feet or my board. The water was incredibly refreshing and I sat in the shore break for a few minutes before paddling up the point. I started to get out to the line up when Banting took off on a wave. He pumped down the line a few feet from the rocks and popped a little air reverse. He got back out before me and caught another wave, pumped down the line and did another air. I sat below everyone and waited for a little wave. People paddled past me and headed up the point. I sat. Finally a shitty little wave went past everyone. I caught it and did a little cutback. I turned around. Banting was already doing another air. I made it back out and sat for a while longer. More kids paddled past me and caught waves. By now there was a line of people stretching the whole point. The whole round of 96 was hassling for perfect little 1 footers running along the rocks. I sat and watched everyone whilst slowly drifting down the point. The water felt nice and I enjoyed sitting on the shoulder watching. Finally a girl aggressively pumped down the line on a 6 incher. A little section popped up between us and I went. I pumped down the line to the beach break and did a floater. I caught a whitewater in. I went in and got a coffee. It was about 7 and the sun beat down like it was 12 in the afternoon…