peepalinayyyy

This day was pretty damn good. Parker and i surfed in the morning and we both ate shit on two good waves. Then we sat and watched four boogie boarders get piped all day in the contest. As soon as it was over we paddled back out. I rode some 6'6" that I found under Pat's house. Honestly, it was probably the worst board i've ever ridden. I'm pretty sure this was the only wave i made the drop on. I ended up breaking the center fin out of the thing and i did a nice back flop onto the reef. Keith Malloy was here with his girlfriend Lauren and she snapped these photos of the afternoon. Keith paddled out with no leash and pretty much owned the session.