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Thursday, March 4, 2010

Too much red meat

The island is starting to get smaller... Following the tsunami evacuation day, we have had day after day of wind, shit surf, and red meat. Joel had us over for 2 mental bbq's and then we stocked up on steaks just in case we got stranded. It sure tastes great, but after a few meals your stomach starts to wonder what the hell your doing to it. As my mom says, I start to get "weird" if i don't surf enough. Well, i think i heard her say that i was being weird several times today. To be honest, I couldn't agree more. I started to act a bit odd the last few days... I really don't know what it is, but something just starts to go wrong in my head. So today when i woke up to some little waves in front of the house i was pumped. We paddled out at off the wall and i was having fun. My brain was starting to work and sanity was coming back to me. Then, I took off on a little wave, went to bottom turn and felt my foot sink through the tail of my board. I pretty much broke the tail off of my last short board. I went in and sat in shock all day while i watched dane and bobby have shockers in the quicky pro. When we finally went to surf again I made a meager attempt to ride my Twin Finner with three normal fins (i left the real fins at home). One wave i didn't even make it to my feet, literally. We ended the day with some more red meat (stomach is in pain), and now i'm ready to pass out. Oh, here are a few random pics that i found from the trip.


The second bbq masterpiece that Joel had us over for.

This was the tsunami day. "Shithead" was the game of choice and juding by the look on my face I'm pretty sure i won this game.

The necessities.

Perry's movie magic.

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