Well... today didn't go as well as planned. We woke up it was weird pipe and looked kinda funky. I waited a little bit and paddled out on one of my brother's boards (the red one) and broke it on a backdoor wave. I ran in and only had my 6'6'' which was way too big for out there. So I decided if I was going to go out on it I would have to get a set. Sure enough, I paddle out and a good set wave came right to me. I started to paddle and started to realize I wasn't going to get into it very easy. So I tried to muscle into it and just dove from the very top of a perfect wave at pipe. I barely touched the reef but my board slammed into the bottom and is ruined. All fun though... next time it would be nice to make it. I am down to three boards now... thats not good.
ALL PHOTOS BY JASON BAFFA
Jasonbaffafilms.com
Parker
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